What to do in San Lorenzo

Just a few minutes from Termini station, the San Lorenzo neighborhood is the location of La Sapienza University’s largest campus. The neighborhood’s character is largely coloured by the sizable student population, which means that there are plenty of bars and music venues with a more alternative feel, numerous cheap restaurants and a number of used book and clothing stores. Historically a working class area, San Lorenzo has consequently long been off the traditional tourist route. Bombed by the Allied forces during WWII, damaging Basilica San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura, the railway station and a steel factory, much of San Lorenzo was rebuilt after the war. While it may still look a little more run-down than Trastevere, San Lorenzo is fast becoming a popular place to go out. Wandering the streets, you’ll discover an intriguing and colorful (everything is covered in graffiti!) part of Rome that will teach you a lot more about the city’s culture – past and present – than many of the conventional tourist sites.

Restaurants

Formula Uno

The neighborhood’s counterpart to Pizzeria Nuovo Mondo and Pizzeria Ai Marmi (in Testaccio and Trastevere respectively), Formula Uno is a lively family pizza restaurant. The menu is much like that at any traditional pizzeria in Rome, pizza and suppli being the highlights. But, visitors to Rome beware, even though pizza at most restaurants here is bound to be superior to that in other countries, not all pizzas are created equal; there are a handful of standout pizzerias in each neighborhood that are worth visiting. Luckily, Formula Uno is one of the best in the city so you can’t go wrong. Even more fortunately, most of the best pizzerias in Rome are excellent value for money and this is true of Formula Uno. Because the food tends to be the central focus, the decor may be wanting. Formula Uno is slightly jazzier than the average pizzeria, with Formula 1 memorabilia decorating the establishment. However, the atmosphere is really defined by the clientele, which means families, groups of young people, and general chaos. Go expecting excellent food and a lively atmosphere, but not an intimate or romantic evening.

Via degli Equi 13

Uno e Bino

A classic Italian enoteca, Uno e Bino is just down the road from Formula Uno. It may be hard to find, hidden as it is behind a bigger, livelier restaurant. There is no official sign outside, except for the old “Vini et Olii” plaque from the days when it was a depot where people in the neighborhood would go fill up containers with wine and oil. The menu is more extensive than you would expect to find at most enoteche, with Sicilian cuisine dominating. There are a number of excellent seafood dishes on offer, including a spaghetti dish with swordfish. There is a small seating area outside in summer. Get there early because this place is popular with local foodies and fills up fast on weekend nights.

Via degli Equi 58

Pommidoro

A favourite haunt of filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini (and where he allegedly dined the night of his death), Pommidoro is a traditional Roman trattoria. The menu is simple, with an emphasis on meats and fish. If you’re looking for pajata (the intestines of a calf with its mother’s milk inside – a Roman specialty!) or just a big slab of meat, this is the place to go. There are also a range of pasta dishes, but again, you would be hard-pressed to find much without meat here. The decor is unremarkable, but if you look around at your fellow diners, you may notice some famous writers and actors in your midst. There is outdoor seating in warm weather.

Piazza dei Sanniti 44

Bars

Sally Brown

Ironically, Sally Brown is easier to find when it’s closed; the detailed graffiti on the blinds is eye-catching but there is no official sign above the entrance to be seen when it’s open. However, you may hear music and a general buzz emanating from this local reggae bar. Filled with students on any given night, it’s a friendly place to stop in for a beer and listen to ska or reggae. There are often DJ sets and occasionally live music. Drinks are cheap, but it’s probably not the best place to come for a complicated cocktail; you’ll notice most people are drinking beer.

Via degli Etruschi 3

Centro Sociale 32

Located in the heart of San Lorenzo, this is a good place to listen to live music. The musical offerings are generally in the ska, hip-hop, reggae range and you’re unlikely to see any big acts here, but it’s a fun place to chill out on a hot summer night. There are a number of centri sociali (literally, social centres) in Rome that cater to young people and those who are looking for a little more excitement than the traditional bar circuit offers, presenting live music and performance art. Although Centro Sociale 32 is one of the smallest, it has the advantage of being one of the most centrally located.

Via dei Volsci 32

Locanda Atlantide

Locanda Atlantide is a neighborhood nightclub that occasionally doubles as a music venue/theatre. Although not much to look at from the outside, the club is a popular hangout for the local student population. The musical acts range from jazz to rock bands, but on club nights the dominant genres are 80s music and contemporary pop. Just don’t be alarmed if you’ve stumbled upon a theatrical performance! The club is divided into 2 rooms, one slightly bigger than the other with a stage area. It’s probably best to checkout their myspace page to see the schedule of events so you know what to expect.

22B Via dei Lucani

Shops

Pifebo Vintage Dresses

Pifebo is the best place in the capital to find recent vintage clothing; most of the clothes here are from the late 80s and 90s, whereas the majority of vintage stores in Rome tend to specialize in 70s/80s clothing. Despite the misleading name, Pifebo carries more than just dresses, stocking a range of vintage shoes, men’s clothing and accessories. The quality of the clothing is excellent and surprisingly good value for money in Rome, (dresses start at 20 euros). The selection is small, but that work to your advantage when it comes to vintage stores. If you browse the racks carefully, you’re bound to find a beautiful designer item (I’ve found Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Max Mara) at a reasonable price. The cheery decor and good music make it a fun place to shop, as well as the roomy changing room, which is a rarity for vintage stores.

Via dei Volsci 101