Roman Summers: Five Things To Do and See

Summer is the busiest time in Rome. From mid-May to early September, the city fills up with visitors from all over the world. Among the consequences of this influx of people are long queues at the city’s main attractions (especially the Vatican), crowded buses and metros and streets peopled with swarms of tour groups. However, despite these apparent drawbacks, Rome remains one of the best cities to visit during the summer. In addition to the guaranteed sunshine, there is the draw of a host of outdoor attractions and activities. Romans are famed for their laissez-faire attitude, which manifests itself in a positive way during the hottest time of year, making everyone a little more relaxed and friendly and generally creating a good holiday atmosphere. By mid-August, when most Romans have migrated to cooler seaside or mountain locations, the city quiets down a little.

Pentecostal Sunday at the Pantheon

Every year on Pentecostal Sunday (which usually falls around the end of May), a special celebratory mass is held at Chiesa Santa Maria dei Martiri (the official Catholic church in the Pantheon). To attend the mass you have to be inside the Pantheon before 10am because security guards begin to circle at that time, telling visitors to leave before the Pantheon closes. (If they try to kick you out, explain that you’re staying for the mass – they can be quite brusque!) By closing time, the seating area in the front of the church will probably have filled up – the first few rows are reserved for international dignitaries and various clergypeople, and the rest first-come-first-serve. It’s a good idea to get a seat if possible because the mass doesn’t start until 10.30am, finishing around noon. When the mass is over, a few of the special security guards position themselves in the cordoned-off area beneath the oculus (the hole in the ceiling) as clouds of rose petals come billowing down from the ceiling so that the whole interior of the building is bathed in red for about five minutes. It’s a serene (and beautifully-scented), but also quite surreal experience. Far from an act of God, the fire department – perched atop the tall building – are actually responsible for this remarkable display, trucking in the petals and pouring them through the oculus.

Dinner and Drinks by the Tiber

From mid-June, the entire city moves outdoors. What this means is that around the city, restaurant and bars are almost entirely outside. Tables are crammed into every inch of open space on sidewalks and in piazzas. In Trastevere, local shop, bar and restaurant owners take the move even further outdoors, opening outposts along the Tiber river.  Despite the river’s unseemly appearance in daylight, by night it is transformed by lights and music, the rush of water making for a pleasant background sound. The entire stretch of the banks of the Tiber between Ponte Sisto and the island are filled with stalls, kiosks and seating areas. In addition to the variety of restaurants and bars, L’Isola del Cinema on the Tiber Island offers film screenings every night from 21.30 to 23.30. This year the entrance is decorated in homage to Fellini’s La Dolce Vita.

Outdoor Concerts and Cinemas

In addition to cinema in the Tiber Island, there are several other opportunities to enjoy films outdoors in Rome in summer. From June 19th to September 6th, the Le Arene di Roma series sponsors film showings at several locations, including Garbatella and Monteverde. Shows begin at 21.15 and there is a 5 euro fee for adults (3 euros for those with an Arena card). The programme comprises a wide range of films, including recent Oscar winners such as Milk and The Reader as well as Italian films. (It should be noted that foreign films are almost always dubbed in Italy so don’t go expecting original language.)  This year the second edition of the Senza Frontiere film festival will take place at the Casa del Cinema from July 1st to 3rd, with an emphasis on cinematic representations of women and teenagers. There are also several outdoor concert series held during the summer, including the Festival Musicale delle Nazioni held in the beautiful surroundings of Teatro Marcello (June 5 – September 27). Concerts begin at 20.30 and cover all types of music from jazz to Beethoven. A series of concerts with a similar range of musical offerings also takes place at Villa Pamphilli park from June 29th to July 27th.

Ballet and Opera at Terme di Caracalla

Every year in July the Teatro dell’Opera in Rome holds its summer opera and ballet season, with shows held in the breathtaking Caracalla baths near Circo Massimo. This year the program includes a ballet version of A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Puccini’s Tosca and Carmen by George Bizet. The series begins July 1st with the ballet version of the Shakespearean classic, concluding  August 9th with Carmen. Ticket prices range from 25 to 110 euros, depending on the quality of the seats. All shows begin at 21.00. The quality of the productions may vary, but the experience of sitting under the stars in an historic site is worthwhile.

The Beach in Ostia

When the days get too hot for exploring the city centre, or if you’re just looking for a rest in the middle of a busy sightseeing holiday, Rome has the advantage of being adjacent to the sea. A train leaves from Porta San Paolo station (by Piramide) every fifteen minutes that, for the price of a metro ticket, will take you to the beach town of Ostia in 45 minutes. The town itself is not much to look at but if you get off the train at any stop after Lido Nord, it’s only a five minute walk to the beach. The majority of the beaches are privately owned and have an entrance fee, but there are also several free beaches, many of them with all the amenities of a paying beach, including bathrooms, a bar and sunbeds and umbrellas to rent. The beach is an essential part of summer in Rome and although some Romans prefer to travel further afield to Fregene or Sperlonga, Ostia really becomes the focal point of social activity, day and night. By day, the beaches are crowded with those looking to see and be seen as well as families, children and older people and by night the coastline is transformed into one big discotheque, as many of Testaccio’s clubs transfer to beachside locations for the summer.

Other Events

There are a number of other events during the summer in Rome, including the  Gay Pride celebrations in June, which include the traditional  parade through the city. The world famous jazz festival in Villa Celimontana is also not to be missed. For more information about summer events, check out http://www.estateromana.comune.roma.it/