Where to eat:
Restaurants:
Da Felice: Via Mastro Giorgio, 29. Tel. 0039-06/5746800. A Testaccio institution, as traditional as they come. The owner, Mr Felice shops every day at the Testaccio market and serves traditional Roman cuisine, including rigatoni cacio e pepe, with pecorino cheese and pepper, pasta all’amatriciana, with red sauce and bacon, pasta lenticchie e fagioli - lentils and thick borlotti bean soup with pasta – trippa, trippa, carciofi alla romana (stewed artichokes with mint). Very crowed, be prepared to wait for a table or to be kicked off if the owner doesn’t like you! Its genuine atmosphere attracts lot of celebrities. Mr Roberto Benigni even composed a poem, nowadays written on the wall of the restaurant.
Da Perilli: Via Marmorata, 39. Tel. 0039-06/5742415. A great typical Roman restaurant. This great restaurant serving great Roman food, is known for its pasta (tonnarelli cacio e pepe) and from its stinco di maiale.
Da Agustarello: Via G. Branca, 98. Tel. 0039-06/5746585. Artists’ hangout on the heart of Testaccio. Prices are unbelievably low and the cooking is good, plain Roman fare. It’s tiny and you can’t make reservations, so come as close to opening time as possible. The menu changes daily but fettuccine al sugo (pasta with simple tomato sauce) is always there. Try the pasta with chickpeas or borlotti beans if you can. House wine doesn’t cost much more than water.
Checchino dal 1887: Via di Monte Testaccio, 30. Tel. 0039-06/5746318. The menu is strong on all fronts, from the antipasti to the primi, secondi and desserts. All this is accompanied by an excellent wine list. Expensive. Reservation essential.
Da Pecorino: Via Galvani, 64. Tel. 0039-06-57250539. Excellent Roman cuisine. Don’t miss their artichokes.
Enoteca Palombi: Piazza Testaccio 38-42. Tel. 0039-06/5740039.
Ketumbar: Via Galvani, 24. Tel. 0039-06/57305338. The Roman version of Paris’s Buddha bar. Japonese restaurant with mediterranean influence. Minimal furniture, great ambience. Lounge music.
Pizzerie:
Da Remo: Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice, 44. Tel: 0039-06/5746270. Hardly a tourist in sight. Great selection of bruschetta and fried starters like (supplì, arancini, fiori di zucca). No reservations, be prepared to queue.
Bars & Pubs & Disco:
Akab: Via di Monte Testaccio, 39. Tel. 0039-06/57250585. Amongst the greateast and trendiest disco in Rome.
Alibi: Via di Monte Testaccio, 40. Tel. 0039-06/5743448. Amongst the most famous gay disco in Rome. Full of atmosphere. Large dance floor, two bars and a VIP area. Wonderful panoramic terrace.
Caffè Latino: Via di Monte Testaccio, 96. Tel. 0039-06/57288556. Historic disco pub of the area. Live concerts and good selection of funky acid jazz.
Etò: Via Galvani, 46. Tel. 0039-06/5748268. White themed minimal designed furniture. Lounge music.
Ex Magazzini: Via dei Magazzini Generali 8-bis. Tel. 0039-06/5758040. Ex Magazzini is housed in a converted warehouse and offers entertainment at all hours. Starting from a drink, you can then watch a theatre or a film. Later good music.
Radio Londra: Via di Monte Testaccio, 65/b. Tel. 0039-06/5750044. A mix of electro and house. 15 euros to enter and you a get a free drink. The crowd is mixed gay and straight, good atmosphere and friendly people.
Original Language Cinemas:
Alcazar - Via Merry del Val, 14 - 0039-06/5880099 (Trastevere)
Nuovo Olimpia - Via in Lucina, 16g - Tel. 0039-06/6861068
Metropolitan - Via del Corso, 7 - Tel. 0039-06/3200933
About Testaccio:
Sites and Monuments:
Mercato di Testaccio: Piazza Testaccio. The epicentre of Testaccio life is the covered fruit and vegetables market. Very popular with local residents, it offers super-fresh, high-quality produce and reasonable prices. Functional and relaxed, friendly atmosphere.
The slaughterhouse Mattatoio, once the area’s main employer, is now home to the Centro Sociale and “Villaggio Globale”, a space used for concerts, raves and the like, along with stabling for the city’s horse-and-carriage drivers and a gymnasium.
The Villaggio Globale also houses something called the Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome (Macro) in Piazza Orazio Giustiniani just inside the main gate, which stages temporary exhibitions of Italian artists until late at night.
Monte Testaccio: which gives the area its name, is a 35-metre-high mound created out of the shards of Roman amphorae that were dumped here over several centuries. The ancients were not aware of the fact that terracotta amphorae could be recycled, and consequently broke them up into small shards and lay down in an olderly manner, sprinkling quicklime on them to dissolve the residual wine or oil and so creating the mountain you see today. It’s an odd sight, the ceramic curls clearly visible through the tufts of grass that crowns its higher reaches, the bottom layers hollowed out by the workshops of car and bike mechanics – and, now, clubs and bars.
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